Essentialism with an amuse d’bijoux. Come stand with me at the edge of the zeitgeist. What are we here for? What was it all for? Saint Laurent engages with the zeitgeist by leapfrogging it, looking ahead. Essentialism.

Classic tailoring with a twist for the, in my colored view, intergalactic. The militaristic aesthetic held together by buttons of maximalism. Celestial bijoux. What type of aesthetic would the neo-victorians want? Essentialism that exudes power. Complex pleading. Pullovers that make you turn your head and gaze. The times will inevitably make us have to dress more uniform. Holding tension nonetheless.

There’

For dem sophisticated hustlers. Get rich or leave this life in a Luis trunk. The MO is still street prep under Pharrell. The nuance being that we seem to be diverging from the mean. Going either more classic or more outspoken and experimental. Should you pull the trigger on that brownstone and settle down or keep nomading with the crew? There’s more range, a desire to cater to more types of modern aristocrats.

The boys are also warming up to a bit of ornamentalism. A tad of sparkle. There’s a similar divergence from the mean in accessories. They

To Athens with you or to Carthage you naughty nobleman? The Sicilian bad boy holds within him two souls: the tyrant and the poet. He wants to write the godfather and be the godfather. So there’s a many variations of the classic bad boy uniform in black, in line with oversized trend. Subtle, sophisticated, playful here and there. But then we get to the poet and all bets are off.

Take the drapes of the villa and make them into garments. Take the jewellery of the entire family and stitch it onto everything. Be the poet in a tyrannical

Gilded Punk for the Ornamentalist. We’re at the Frick, Gilded Age. We’re nodding at Keith Haring, 80s sage. Decorative plaster is to the 19th century what Haring is to the 20th: a desire to leave a bold imprint. The red thread of the collection is a nod to the Pantheon of maximalism. It’s a sign that LV Couture is what I’d coin a platform brand. Less burdened by history compared to other houses, it tends to sail sharply on the winds of the zeitgeist and Ghesquière is a fine captain.

Boxy sharp silhouttes, in your face

the art of singular mastery. I’ve always associated Paul with his enduring ability to speak the language of the bobo: the bourgeois bohemian. Doing one thing incredibly well for them and garnering their loyalty. In the current era, it’s the sophisticated reinterpretation of the wide and oversized aesthetic. It’s applying the sartorial knowhow of shape and drape to bring additional drama to the look. Crafting the creative’s uniform on the precipice of a Gilded Age.

The oversized look takes centre stage but the brand’s heritage of experimental color and pattern for men is not forgotten.